There are some great photos of floats satirizing Bush at http://www.commondreams.org/headlines05/0208-10.htm.
Luckily, I went as the guest of a highly experienced native reveller, my colleague Max, who coached me on proper participation. Most importantly, everyone wears a costume. He dressed as a kangaroo, and I was an American cowgirl. Traditions vary between towns, for instance, in
We started Saturday evening by the
The narrow, cobbled streets of the old city were streaming with people of all ages, laughing, singing, and dancing. Kölsch, the local beer, was for sale on every corner. We toasted the evening with some standard half-liter bottles and gaped at the great silliness unleashed by the usually dignified Germans. Andrew discovered that he could drink beer off his fake beer belly – except when attempting beer belly dancing at the same time.
Max led us to the Geisterzug, or ghost parade, so-called because it started in protest of plans to cancel carnival during the Gulf war. It remains popular because it´s a participatory parade, unlike the others, which feature floats and marching bands prepared by Carnival clubs for months in advance. We just jumped right into the parade and spent a few hours bouncing through Cologne to the beats of various drumming groups.
I saw a more traditional parade on Sunday, when we joined a group of Max´s friends in his native Bad Godesberg. The bands and groups of marching girls were dressed in over-the-top military style uniforms to parody the French troops that occupied the
As each float passed, candy rained down, causing a scramble underfoot. An estimated 140 tons of sweets were thrown in Köln alone! I filled a large bag which is being shared around the office.
On Monday I hung out in the
I made it back to Köln for the very tail end of the parade, just in time to see the Prinz, or Prince of the Carnival, whose float comes last. As the estimated 1.4 million people began to disperse, I was struck by how peaceful and well organized things were. A parade of garbage trucks was there immediately, with long tubes for sucking up trash and broken glass off the street. Lots of police were present, but they were quite relaxed. I saw a group of officers leaning on a parade barrier, one holding a bouquet of flowers.
Besides beer, what is ever-present at Karneval are the songs. There are dozens of songs with simple melodies and repeated lyrics that people sing over and over with gusto. I learned the words to a few, but the ones in Kölsch are hard to remember. Some songs were easier, like “dicke mädchen sind von Himmel geschenkt,” or fat girls are heaven-sent.
Here are the words to the one I sang the most: (you can hear a rendition in the movie)
Ja, das ist prima, viva Kolonia!
Wir lieben das leben, die liebe und die lust,
Wir glauben in ein lieben Gott und haben noch immer durst!
Basically it means ´we love life, the love and the delight, we believe in a loving God, and so we are still thirsty´. (German friends, please pardon my awful spelling and translation, corrections welcome!)
See the action on YouTube,
52 comments:
First comment!
You are a very talented observer of my country! Forget California - you should cover Germany for the New York Times! The readers would benefit tremendously from changing their Germany correspondent and you could go to "Karneval" jedes Jahr!
I was in Koln for Karneval in 2007 and I am going back this year. (We leave Friday from New York but are flying to HAmburg first.) Your descrition of Karneval is the best I have read. I am currently trying to find lyrics to some of the songs so I can join the singing. In 2007, I faked my way through. I'm marching in the Sunday parade, too!
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